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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a really nice used Vaquero. It had been well taken care of and the gun store guy told my it was used by a cowboy action shooter. What I have noticed is that he apparently shot exclusively .38s in the gun. It shoots them very well. But when I tried to shoot the longer .375 Magnum they only go as far into the cylinder as a .38 would and that is it. I brushed it long and hard with a stainless steel brush, and it is lots better, but only brass cases will go all the way in, nickle ones won't. What are my options with this cylinder to get .357 bullets to work well.
Thanks.
 

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That is strange...maybe try a Brownells cylinder throating reamer...

Hand turned reamer opens the cylinder throat to a uniform diameter for best accuracy with lead and jacketed bullets. Removable pilots let you select the correct pilot for the closest possible fit to individual chambers...corrects out of spec, smaller-than-bore-diameter cylinder throats on .357 Cal. from .3545" to .357". Open the throat to .358". .357 furnished with a .354" pilot. Pilot Packs contain six additional pilots in .0005" increments. .

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...olver-cylinder-throating-reamer-prod7700.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll have to think about that. It is the far end of the cylinder that holds up the longer .357 cartridge. This sounds really extreme. I was thinking about just getting the finest black sandpaper, wrap it around a pencil and just polish the cylinder wall down near the end. I already cleaned it up some with a stainless wire bore brush.
 

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I'll have to think about that. It is the far end of the cylinder that holds up the longer .357 cartridge. This sounds really extreme. I was thinking about just getting the finest black sandpaper, wrap it around a pencil and just polish the cylinder wall down near the end. I already cleaned it up some with a stainless wire bore brush.
I'm thinking those reamers won't touch the case diameter of the chamber anyway.

[Jeweler's rouge applied with a cotton swab to the afflicted area. A nickel case, no primer. A case-mouth chamfering tool to turn the case in the chamber. If it works, you have my permission to take all the credit.]
 

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I was going to suggest a small amount of Semichrome or Flitz polish cream.
Use a cotton patch, spin it by hand just on the tight part, little by little, until the cases feel like a good fit.


buff it afterwards with clean cotton.



Jim
 

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I was going to suggest a small amount of Semichrome or Flitz polish cream.
Use a cotton patch, spin it by hand just on the tight part, little by little, until the cases feel like a good fit.


buff it afterwards with clean cotton.



Jim
Good call Phideaux. A lead solvent in between polishing sessions might help some.
 

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Hey Trainman,

Let us know how it works out ..



Jim
 

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Hey Trainman,

Let us know how it works out ..

Jim
Yeah, but if it doesn't work, and you go to my method for a successful outcome, keep it to yourself. Too many people have committed to phideaux's formula for TC to survive the embarrassment.

:cool:



;)
 

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Yeah, even if my method fails....



Pretend that it did, and tell us a lie..;):p:D




Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No lie. I have this polishing material called "Never Dull Magic Wadding Polish" It is left over from my 67 Camaro and more recently my Motorcycle days. I used it to polish chrome and stainless. It is kind of like a dense cotton material in a can. It isn't wet, but clearly soaked in something. Well it polished those cylinder walls just fine. They are really clean. I finished with a lot of polishing with a clean pad. Now all my ammo slides right in and out. The walls are still scored from the previous life, but all is well.
Thanks for the great idea.
 

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Great ,
Ive used Never Dull many times, but I never would have thought that it would be abraisive enough , but glad it worked.


We all saved face ....huh..?:D



Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had used a stainless bore brush on it a lot, so I took most of it down. The Never Dull really wasn't abrasive, but just cleaned and polished the area. I really didn't want to go to anything abrasive other than the brush, unless I couldn't make any progress.
We are so smart!
Paul
 

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Glad it worked out for you. I checked out the iffy part of my proposal - driving the case* with the chamfering tool. It is a little iffy.

*The case needs to be sans powder and primer, with a wadcutter bullet installed. Using the wadcutter would avoid 'polishing' the bullet diameter section of the chamber. To enable the chamfering tool to get a grip, it would need to be lightly tapped into the primer pocket.

My method has the attraction of employing gadgets. Gadgets are Good. Inferior performance is more than offset by the utilization of gadgets.
 

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Back in the day when I cast and shot revolvers a lot more than I do today, I'd get ".38 ledge" in my .357 (several different guns over the years), because my practice ammo was mostly the former. Cast bullets can leave a regular ring of metal in there, and it can be difficult to remove. Plated or jacketed bullets can leave copper in there if the loads are hot, too.
As has already been covered in this thread, a stainless brush will definitely attack the stubborn stuff more than the bronze brushes do. A product that does a great job on copper and compounds in the bore (or cylinder chambers, of course) is Wipe-Out. Comes in a spray can, spritz it in there and it fills the bore with something that looks like shaving cream. Let it sit and brush it out, it comes out blue and that's your fouling.
 

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Yep, same thing happened to my Blackhawk after many thousands of .38s. My solution was to sharpen the end of a brass rod and carefully scrape the rings out. Worked for me. Now I only shoot .357 ammo in that gun.
 
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