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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't find a silver stock butt plate for the factory stock anywhere.
So... ImageUploadedByRuger Forum1399840200.861726.jpg
5 alternating layers of Krylon Colormaster metallic silver and Krylon Satin Clear Coat so far.
A few more, then planning about 5 additional layers of the clear coat.
Should be fairly scratch resistant after that. (Fingers and toes crossed)


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Yeah looks great.....let us know how it holds up.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, so far, so good.
I've got a nice multi layer glaze over the last layer of the silver. At this point, I'm letting the clear coat dry 24 hours per layer. One more to go. The last layer I'll let dry for a week. (If I can resist)


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After 7 days of drying/curing, put a good coat or two, of turtle wax or good auto wax.




Jim
 

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That does look good, but If the paint doesn't hold up, you should find a powder coating shop.
Powdercoat is about as tough as it gets. I powder coat a lot of parts and even the wheels on my motorcycle have not seen any scratches or nicks from daily use or the tire changer.
 

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I can't imagine it being too expensive.
I have had several sets of wheels and a lot of engine parts done.
The wheels were the most expensive and I paid $75 each for them to be media blasted and coated.

I would talk to some powder coat shops and show them what you want. Small parts like that can sometimes be done along with other parts that are getting done. That can real cut the cost way down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Interesting JM. That may be the way I need to go, with a new black plastic buttplate.
I'm about 4 days into this project curing, and I can't see putting it back on the gun and putting it back in my cabinet, sitting on the painted buttplate. It still feels a bit tacky. Maybe a full week or curing will change my opinion.

I guess the bigger question is; The 10/22 is one of the most customizable rifles in existence. I can literally by any addon for it... ... EXCEPT a silver metal buttplate for the factory stock. Weird.

I'll stay with it though. Wednesday will be a week. I'll report back with final findings.
Thanks again all, for your input. I'm new at this.


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I did not realize that the butt plate was plastic. That changes things.
Powdercoat is baked to cure, so it can not be done on plastic.
 

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I think Krylon has a paint that's for out door plastics, might work. Another idea, something I have used for plastic dashes is chrome Mylar. You can get in variety of sizes with adhesive back, cheap and stick good and replace if damaged.
 

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I used Krylon Fusion from walmart.
about 6 coats of paint, about 6 coats clear, let cure 7 days. 2-3 coats of good car wax, buffed.

This is my most used rifle I own(Savage model 11 Trophy Hunter). It gets shot a lot. Its been done for over a year ,has NO scratches or dings, or chips, its very hard surface.

Dont treat it any rougher than you would a wooden stock,



Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow Jim, that looks great! After day 7, I'm going to do the wax/buff step.
...too bad about the powder coat not working on plastic.
I'm not outta this yet though. I'm still holding out hope that it dries hard and durable.


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This is my grandsons, they shoot it a lot, its been painted over a year.
It gets handled pretty rough, still looks great.
Same procedure with paint and panty hose.:)



Jim
 

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Looks great
Helpful hint if your doing multiple coats of clear coat use OO steel wool between layers.Gives it a much better look.Works great on wood projects as we'll.
 
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