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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got out this morning with the beast for the first shots, no pattering as I just wanted to get a feel for it and how it would operate. It cycled with authority, no short stroking. I was wearing my heavy down winter jacket so no doubt it absorb some recoil but it felt good in the hands and didn't knock me around. Of course once I start blasting my steel buckshot loads and wearing just a shirt it may be a totally different story.

But I'm very pleased at this point. And I shot from both sides.
I ordered another choke for it as I won't be able to use the one I have with the buckshot loads. Got the same style (extended) but with no restriction.
Stop off at one of the local big box stores and scoop up another 100 rounds at .32 cents a round, you can't beat that with a stick. And if all goes as planned it will become my buckshot defense load. I now have a stash of 500 rounds.

I hope the online shops realize a lot of people out here will never buy sht from them again, I sure as hell won't.
It's been the local brick and mortar who has not gouge the public. And they will get my business.
Every single online shop is robbing the public.





I'll keep this thread up to date as I journey along with the beast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I cooked up some buckshot defensive loads using steel slingshot ammo at roughly .31 cal. (1½-0 buck) 12 pellet load.
Had to make changes to the original plan as I could not get the shot weight I needed in the wad that was in the shell so I cut the pedals off and wrapped the inside of the hull with mylar. I did buy some buffer and will test that out and see if it makes a difference. Don’t really need it with steel as it doesn’t deform like lead, I bought it more for patterning.




My barrel and choke are rated for steel but it’s generally steel birdshot. However I can’t shoot any type of slugs from the factory barrel because of the way they made it to pattern better. The last 5 inches or so are mic’d out to a 10 gauge and the danger is a slug will tumble and possibly lodge and if you don’t catch it we get kaboom the next round fired.

No problem cause I didn’t buy it to go long. 30 feet or less (note feet not yards) the beast takes face off. And there is simply no better defensive tool period and I have 12 chances with every pull of the trigger.

I would much prefer however to reload the traditional way but until we can get powder and primers I will improvise and if I can’t reload I’m screwed because there are no factory defensive loads made I can handle. I got the math down for myself to a science, I know what pound force and recoil impulse I can tolerate. As well as I will not own any firearm I can’t have fun at the range with without beating me up.

Had I known what I know now I’d gotten a 12 gauge a long time ago before this ammo and supply debacle started. Thankfully I have a small stash to improvise with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Wanted to test out my load and see what kind of effectiveness it would have.
I made an unscientific medium using a pizza pan as a backdrop layered with approximately ⅛ thick molding clay to act as elasticity a skin layer, covered over with approximately ⅜ thick jute pad. And on top of that I placed a poster board layer so I could see where it was pattering as well as a guide to aim center.

This was done in the middle of the pan’s circumference of approximately 11 3/4”.
I fired several rounds with all being at 30 feet away.



Wearing a sweatshirt this time out as the weather was in the 40’s. The recoil was noticeable without my thick down jacket on but it didn’t beat me up and was pleasant to shoot. The gun has good weight behind it and so muzzle rise is not a concern. I can control it and most importantly handle the beast.

This experiment shows me that should the need ever arise the beast will take care of the problem.
They are clocking in at (approximately) 900-1000 fps with (approximately) 685 ft. lbs of energy at the muzzle with a total weight of (approximately) 380g. This is steel not lead, it doesn’t deform and it hits like a sledgehammer.


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
This test was to see what kind of energy, if any, my homemade load would have left after going through the initial target. So I set up a 1 ½ inch thick 12”x12” concrete stepping stone behind the target.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
First Shots

Sold off the beast and bought a single shot 12 gauge that fits my needs better. Hit the range at daybreak today to run the first shots. No pattering just wanted to get a feel for it and see how it would run. Handled my loads just fine but unlike the beast because of it’s lighter weight you know you are shooting a shotgun. o_O


Shot from both sides, a tad rough on the weak side but it didn’t scare me and I handled it.
Very pleased with my purchase and it’s so compact and so easy to maintain and clean.

So out with the beast and in comes the plinker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Went out to my other spot I shoot at (a lot of rain lately and the mosquitoes are less ferocious) and did some pattering with the plinker which is generally the rule of thumb with any shotgun you buy whether it’s for duck hunting etc. or self-defense. And no two will pattered the same so you need to know where your shotgun is spreading the shot and the size of that spread.

From there you can make adjustments via chokes or even the type of load if need be.
It can be time consuming and even costly to get what you are looking for.
It’s probably more important for the hunters than for us who just like to plink and use it for self-defense.


Anyway it all looked good and the plinker should be up to the task if need be.

One thing I didn’t mention when I posted the first shots through it, because I never noticed it until the next day and even then it was several days after that I figured it out.
This thing bruised me, not bad and not on the shoulder but on the strong side of my upper arm. It doesn’t hurt but I was curious as to how I got bruised there.

I can’t even imagine trying to even shoot medium house loads out of this thing let alone full house loads. I will admit I did have some trepidation when I bought it because of how small and lite it is. And if I couldn’t make my own loads I would have never bought it. But going from the beast to this is just about night and day.

Nevertheless it’s all good and the plinker is a keeper. Best money spent since my EC9s. As both were extremely affordable and work good, value for the money as some say.

I made some changes to my load but only to the size of the hull itself, I cut them down to a mini shell or what the factory loads consider a mini shell. All the other data posted remains the same. However I can’t crimp them because my crimper won’t work on shells this small so I just glue an overshot card on top and that’s enough to hold the pressure until the right moment.



I did it mainly for ease of reloading them as well as a cost saving measure because there was too much empty space to fill up. Subject to change in the future however as I continue to work this load. These factory hulls are garbage though, basically one time use and toss. (of course I’m blasting steel out of them)









 
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