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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw this cool "tribute" gun on another forum, I thought I would enjoy attempting to build one of these myself.



so the idea is to recreate the look of the cavalry carbines of the late 19th century

The Spencer



The Sharps



The Springfield Trapdoor



Key elements:
semi-crescent butt plate - Ruger 10/22 already has
short barrel - ditto
barrel band - ditto
straight grip - we can modify
tapered forend - we can modify
saddle ring - we will add
slings - we will add
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I began searching for an affordable 10/22

didn't take long and I was able to score a 2013 vintage 10/22 for a very reasonable price, and it came with an extra stock!

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The first step is collecting the necessary parts. I have the gun and the stock (which is made of either maple or birch)

I found this set of slings from a Enfield No.1 Mk3, I'll modify the front one to fit the Rugers barrel band and the rear will get inletted into the butt stock



I bought this handmade 1" leather sling on ebay.



I didn't care for the sliver Chicago bolts, so I bought some brass ones

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was planning on building a custom saddle ring, but I was lucky enough to pick up this one from a Krag-Jorgensen Carbine



I went shopping on the Bolt Depot and picked up some oval head screws for the butt plate, saddle ring and rear sling



I also found this rear sight, I think it's from a Winchester .22 (model 67??)



The guy who inspired this build installed an extended mag release, because it sort of resembles the lever used to open the action of some of the old carbines, so I got one too

 

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Hey TINCAN,

We will be here , waiting and watching to see the progress and finished product.

Cool project.



Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I decided to use this stock for this project, it was the ugliest of the 5 that I had collected.

Notice the splotchy finish, both birch & maple are notorious for resisting stain (which will make refinishing a challenge).





I removed the butt plate (to prevent it from getting scratched) and mounted the stock in my vice. Time to start making saw dust

The first task is to remove the pistol grip with a wood saw

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Using a straight edge we can see that we have a lot of material to remove.



We'll need to remove some from the sides as well



progress



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After much rasping, filing and sanding we have it close, the tape is for the modification to the fore end



I then cut flutes in the front of the comb, I may remove a little more material in front of the comb to accentuate it more


 

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Looking Good.

Question.....do you ever use a Random Orbital sander?





Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Tommycourt
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I am really anxious to see how this turns out. It would really be great if you can get a real good clone with the one you are rebuilding. It takes a lot of time and attention but when done, I think you will have a real beauty on your hands. Good luck and keep up the good work. Please keep us posted with pics as you progress.

Tommy
 

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Tincan, this is beyond interesting, it's fascinating. Please continue the detailed-with-photos story.

[I am also pleased that I can read&watch this with no urge to try it myself. 40 years ago I might have made a real mess.]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks guys, I will definitely keep you posted on the progress, in fact here is some more:

Following Hipshot's instructions I start on the fore end by marking a line and then cutting the line in with a fine tooth saw



I then start rasping, filing and sanding





The final cut is made with a wood chisel



Almost fits perfect, we'll clean it up a bit more and then taper the end considerably

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now we mark a line to start changing the taper to the rear of the barrel band



Some rough guidelines, don't worry, I am not removing all of the material outside of the lines, I am just using the lines to remind me not to remove too much inside the lines.



I started with the rasp

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Then went to the file



Then I started on the nose, I drew a line and began tapering the fore tip



but I forgot I wanted to shorten it, so I cut 1" off the end and trued it up with my disc sander


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Then I worked the nose, tapering it and rounding the edges



 

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Fascinating! Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here is a picture of the stock next to an unmodified one, it appears to be a lot shorter, even though we only removed 1 inch



 

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That final photo helps some, but the whole sequence scares me. I keep thinking "Oh, no, Mr. Bill."
 
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