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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My SR9 has firing pin drag marks, if that’s what you call them. My question can I go to a stronger striker spring to try and withdraw the striker faster before the ejector kicks the brass out? Or should I look at honing the end of the firing pin as it seems I get very deep primer strikes? Or the third option get a cold beer sit back relax and wait for ammo prices to come back down?
 

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Or the third option get a cold beer sit back relax and wait for ammo prices to come back down?
Not until the idiots blow through their stimulus wad buying the clever 'bulk packaging' gimmick. I got only 1 mag of 9mm in the gun, not shooting it again until I see the prices back to normal and may never shoot it again the way things are going.

On the other hand I'm stock piling at a reasonable cost 12 gauge ammo. I got a plan. Reloading is out cause no one has powder or primers. But I'm gonna use the components already loaded except for the shot. Going with a steel slingshot load. (between 1 1/2 -0 buck)

Suffice to say something is fishy out there, it's never been this bad.
 

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Striker drag or primer drag is pretty common on a lot of different handguns. My M&Ps and Glocks all have some degree of striker drag. As long as it is not either smashing through the primer or causing large divots like the early Sig P365's were, it's good to go and should not require any changes to the gun.

All of the 9mm I shoot through my M&Ps looks like this.
Brown Wood Coin Saving Cash
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That’s interesting because I have a Walther PPQ, M&P Shield, 380 EZ, CZ75b and a SAR 2000 and none of them do it just the Ruger.
 

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My Glocks do that also along with my EAA witness. Haven't found it to be a big deal, or even a little deal. Cartridges go off and the bullet travels onward. What's NOT to like?
 

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I like option #3.

Option #2? Never file, shave down or hone your firing pin. You want that firing pin to hit the primer hard enough to create ignition of your cartridge.

Option #1. Not sure if this would solve the primer drag.

I have a Sig P-365, it has some primer strike drag. My Glock 43 also does the same.
A co-worker who has a Shield mentioned to me that his also leaves primer strike drag on the primer.

I'm not sure it is a major problem or any problem worth worrying about.
On some Sig forums, they've mentioned that it was designed that way and other have mentioned that the Sig company has responded to their questions and complaints over it.
Sig's statements or response was that it is perfectly normal when firing small micro size firearms.

When I purchased my 365, I was warned of all the failures. To this day I've not had any malfunctions, no exaggeration, not one failure. I shoot left handed therefore eliminating the thumb over the slide lock. I've not had any failure to fire, failure to feed, failure to eject, no stove pipes.
My 365 has fired everything I've fed it in different weight grain or brand of ammo, including reloads.

I had never heard of the primer drag before and I don't think it was ever a problem until Sig came out with their Sig P-365.

Seems too many people out there wanted the 365 to fail and since there was nothing to complain about they cooked up what ever they could to make sure no one went out and bought one.

Today there are so many micro guns and more companies making them because it is what many of us like in order for concealment purposes.
Even Taurus jumped into the game and came up with a G2C. Crappy trigger but great gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Option 3 it is. I have a couple of bottles of Indio saved up. Warmer weather would help or maybe not.
 

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Firing pin drag is pretty common and caused as the unlocking barrel moves downward while the firing pin is still in slight contact with the spent primer. Mostly found in "fixed breech" semi-auto pistols.
 

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Just learned something.
If your firearm has a bbl that tilts when the slide is racked to the rear, you will have what people refer to primer drag. As the spent case is being ejected the firing pin will leave its mark.

A 1911 won't have that because the bbl does not tilt up.
 

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Just learned something.
If your firearm has a bbl that tilts when the slide is racked to the rear, you will have what people refer to primer drag. As the spent case is being ejected the firing pin will leave its mark.

A 1911 won't have that because the bbl does not tilt up.
Not trying to start an argument with you brother, but 1911's use the Browning tilting barrel, short recoil action. The barrel does drop or tilt up. 1911's have a firing pin spring and a firing pin that is not long enough to touch the primer while the hammer is resting down. The inertia of the hammer hitting the pin compresses the spring and drives the pin to hit the primer but the firing pin spring immediately pushed the firing pin back so the firing pin is not hanging out long enough to cause a drag mark.
 

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Not trying to start an argument with you brother, but 1911's use the Browning tilting barrel, short recoil action. The barrel does drop or tilt up. 1911's have a firing pin spring and a firing pin that is not long enough to touch the primer while the hammer is resting down. The inertia of the hammer hitting the pin compresses the spring and drives the pin to hit the primer but the firing pin spring immediately pushed the firing pin back so the firing pin is not hanging out long enough to cause a drag mark.
It's all good, not upset. We all learn some how and I am one that is always learning, even in my older yrs. My 1911 does have a floating bbl. but does not tilt in the upwards position about 5% when the side is racked to the rear.

Not so much so as my Sig P-365.
 
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