SP101 Trigger Shim question

Discussion in 'Ruger Revolver Forums' started by taylorkh, Oct 6, 2014.

  1. taylorkh

    taylorkh New Member

    2
    0
    1
    Recently I broke out my SP101 .38 Spl (purchased in 1993) for some target practice. The action had not improved with age :( The double action trigger pull, measured with a utility spring scale as my trigger gauge only goes up to 8 pounds, came in at about 14 - 16 pounds. Good for building up the muscles in the trigger finger but not for much else.

    In preparation for doing something about it I tore down the revolver and examined various parts to see what is rubbing against what. The worst area seems to be the pawl against the right side of the trigger. The term furrows comes to mind.

    A little research on-line provided some excellent information on smoothing the action, reducing the trigger pull with Wolff springs (on order) and the final step being to install shims to keep the hammer and trigger from rubbing on the frame or other parts. The information on triggershims.com indicates that the two shims should be .002" less than the gap between the trigger or hammer and the frame. This is no problem with the hammer. The gap is .012". However, the trigger to frame gap is only .002".

    Has anyone on the forum had experience with shimming SP101s or other Ruger revolvers? If I had a surface grinder I could cut a couple thousandths off each side of the trigger - but I don't. I guess I could lap the trigger to gain the necessary clearance. Any other ideas?

    TIA,

    Ken
     
  2. sigman84

    sigman84 New Member

    27
    0
    0
    Ya I would lap the surface. Surface grinder is guaranteed to take off way more than needed.