Ruger Sr 45 heavy trigger.

My first reaction would be to contact Ruger customer service and explain the problems with the pistol. There is no reason why it should not accept the ammo you are using. All of my (I have 3) SR1911's and the trigger pulls were @5lbs. perspectively. I had a trigger job done on 2 of them and the other has remained stock. However it will receive a trigger job also. I like them to be @4bs. I can't tell you about your pistol though as I have no experience with them. Sorry for that!

Tommy

BTW- just food for thought, 1.180 seems to be to be a little short in your COAL. I load all of mine @1.250. I could be wrong. I am using Berry's plated 230grn RN and Bullseye powder on the loads I am doing now. Prior to that I was using, Power Pistol (don't like) Titegroup and W-231. I like all the powders except for Power Pistol.

 

Hey Kyhunter,

The SR45, 40, and 9 do not care for SWC .

Use round nose or hollowpoints and start at the recommended OAL and you wont have any trouble.

As for the trigger, I told you what you could do for that in your gunsmithing post.

Not sure what these mixed reviews are with the Galloway spring and reset bar, but I have put in 7 and they all work splendidly. 7 for 7 is a pretty good percentage.

If you tear down the SR45, you are going to see that there are no significant friction points causing any resistance. Not enough to do any stoning anyways like you could on your 1911s.

Any slightly rough spots or machine marks smooth out in about a box of rounds. So there is no hope there.

You are left with the reset bar and the trigger spring that can be where you are going to get your improvements from.

The only times I have heard any problem with the Galloway smoothits and reset bar is when they have been installed improperly.

This is the only way you are going to improve the trigger action without compromising reliability.


Doc

 

Re the bolded: . It is safe to assume that there are some people wanting to do just about anything, eh?

Re Doc: I have the strong impression that he is a pretty smart dude. (And a 'gun nut', but those are thicker on the ground than smart dudes.)

 

Hey, Kyhunter

Yeah, I had counted them up and it was 7, 3 of mine and 4 for some buddies. Between us I had put a kit in all but one of the models, the SR9

The improvements in trigger action actually come in 2 parts.

I am sure you notice the amount of pretravel (distance you pull the trigger back before it begins the firing sequence) and reset length (after the primer is struck, the distance the trigger needs to travel forward until you can begin the pull for another shot again.

After the new reset bar is put in place, the pretravel is all but eliminated (you actually must have some for the gun to function properly), The break is crisp and clear like the proverbial glass. The reset length is very small.

A side note, you may already know this, while pretravel length is easy to determine, to get a definite feel of the reset length, you pull the trigger, keep it pulled, rack the slide, and slowly ease off the trigger until you hear and feel the click of the sear resetting.

The lighter trigger spring and to a very minor extent, the lighter safety plunger spring that comes in the smoothit kit 1 are the main improvements to the actual trigger pull weight.

I did do before/after trigger pull weight tests on 5 of] the guns (2 of the 45, 1 each of the 40, 40c, 9c as I said none of us had the SR9)

I only remember the 45 and 40 numbers because they were the most significant difference. The trigger pull weight decrease on the others were not nearly as much but still noticeable. The compacts seemed to have a little bit better trigger action, but still improved significantly after the kits.

The numbers on the 2 SR45 that I worked on (averaged 10 pulls) were 8.2 and 7.7 before, and 4.3 and 4.1 after respectively. The one SR40 was 7.8 before and 4.1 after. I don't remember the compact numbers aside from that I believe they hovered around 4 also in after testing, but the before was not as much as the 45 and 40 so the decrease was obviously not as much.

Hope this was understandable and not just sound like a bunch of rambling, and that it helps.

Doc

 

My Sr45 came from the factory with a good trigger, never measured it but felt like 5lbs. I used SWC lead with no problems whatsoever. sorry to here you are having problems.

 

How odd.

None of the ones I have shot including the compacts like SWC and that trigger sounds almost too good.

I wonder what comparing production dates would turn up.

Doc

 

Hey, Max

While there is nothing wrong with kit 4, keep in mind that they are basically charging you $28 for the stainless striker indicator and plunger. Aesthetically, the indicator might look cooler, but it and the plunger will not provide any noticeable improvement in action.

If you get the ultimate reset bar separately for $20, and kit 1 , you will have the basic parts needed for improving trigger action and pay $37 instead of $65.

Also, you might want to send the gunsmith the installation videos that I sent to you. That way he knows exactly the work he needs to do in case he has not worked on the SR45 (or the others in that model type) and will be able to better give you an estimate for the work.

Doc

 

I'm not finding 'kit 1' on the Galloway site.

 

I wasn't sure if linking is allowed.

http://gallowayprecision.com/ruger/sr/smooth-it-trigger-kits-for-ruger-sr9-sr9c-sr40-sr40c-sr45/

Right above the red "add to cart" button is a "select kit" drop down menu.

Then the picture changes to show you what is in each kit.

Doc

 

KYHunter,

If you want round nose bullets of different sizes, contact Berry Bullets. I am sorry I don't have the phone # in front of me but you can look it up on the net. I only shoot 230 grn but they have other size bullets also that are round nose. Price wise I pay $72.00 for 500 rounds of plated bullets. Sportsman's wanted $48.00 per 400 plus tax. With Berry, if your order is over $75.00 they will pay the freight and it comes Priority Mail. Only takes a few minutes to set up an account and there service and shipping are spectacular. This week I order 500 rounds on Thursday and received them in the mail on Saturday. They are closed on Friday though. Also ask them for a catalog so you can buy bullet holders for a couple of bucks and that puts you over the $75.00 minimum to cover freight costs. When you call ask for the order desk and they will transfer you over right away and tell them what you want. I can't emphasize enough how courteous and well they package and ship your parcel. Good luck!!!

Tommy

 

Hey, KY

That small spring goes in the striker safety block. To put that in, you have to disassemble the slide completely. On your parts diagram the striker safety block is that cylinder type thing in front of the magazine disconnect safety.

In reality, that spring does not make a bit of difference and you will not be able to tell at all that you have replaced it if you decide to.

That sounds like a good plan what the smith said.

Watch the videos several times before doing the work and have it playing on a laptop and reference to it as you work and take your time.

Doc

 

Ah, I am relieved by your info re that small spring. I have had several startling-but-not-entertaining experiences with small springs.

BTW can you provide a link to relevant YouTube video(s)? [TIA]

I am going to have to use my computer desktop as a workbench, not owning a laptop. There are a lot of crannies around that area, another problem with small springs.

KY, shall we compare experiences when we are done?

 

There are 3 videos actually that are pretty good.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMVtK7OWtCI[/ame]

http://gallowayprecision.com/how-to-videos/#sr9

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMVtK7OWtCI[/ame]

Each has a different point of view and a bit more detail in different areas.

You should actually watch all 3 to get a good feel of what you are looking at.

And then when it is time to work along with a video, this is the better one (in my opinion, you might like another)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FHi-DK12to[/ame]

One thing you will take note of when you watch that last one before hand, you will see he makes a minor mistake at around the 7:40ish mark . He forgot a part. But he quickly realizes it and fixes it.

Between the 3 of them, I can't think of anything that you will get into trouble with if you take your time.

With the one trigger spring (not the striker block), just take note of its orientation to the sear block and trigger bar after you remove the assembly from the frame so you will be sure to put the new one in properly.

Oh, and VT, you should put a towel or something down to work on. You don't want any of the pins or safety detent rolling away.

Doc

 

Hey, KY

You will actually find that getting a bit lower as it breaks in with the new spring and bar.

You should have also noticed the much smoother action with the pretravel and reset length. Not to mention the trigger break. How did that go?

Glad you had a successful installation. Well done.

Doc