[RIBob]

First of all, condolences on your recent loss.

The muzzle device seems to be a "slip-on" style of muzzle device, with the original front sight underneath it. The muzzle device is attached with a roll pin going through the original front sight. Carefully driving out the roll pin should allow the "slip-on" muzzle device to be removed. If there are any other items securing the muzzle device, un-do them as well. It may also be that the muzzle device was attached using some sort of loc-tite and/or glue. If so, some heat from a propane torch applied to the muzzle device, not directly to the barrel should loosen it enough for it to be driven off the barrel, perhaps with some twisting. Re-install a shorter roll pin onto the original front sight to secure the original front sight in place.

Suggest protecting the exposed parts of the barrel with a "wrap" of some thin sheet metal before driving-off the muzzle device with a hammer and brass drift/punch. It might pull off easily, but who knows?

A local gunsmith can do this job easily and for scant expense, if you are unwilling to do it; maybe for free/reduced cost if offered the muzzle device in (partial) payment. In the event CA laws change, or you move to another State, there are much better muzzle devices available.

Strongly suggest you obtain an owner's Manual for your Model of Mini from Ruger.com and read it very carefully. Your model of Mini is determined by the (usually) 3 digits in the Serial Number preceding the "-" in the whole serial number. You mentioned that it's a 182 series but check again to be sure.

Make sure your Mini-14 is properly assembled before making any decisions on magazines.

Suggest you try out other magazines and see what works best for you. A factory Ruger 5-rd magazine will almost always work, and such a 5-rd mag may be required for hunting use, will give you something that works, and a way to compare to other 10-rd mags.

If the 5-rd mag works (and it should) and the 10-rd mags still won't work, then suggest sending them back. "Adjusting" magazines to work properly in the Mini-14 can be done, but it is always tricky. Suggest "stocking-up" on magazines each of which you have personally tested and verified. Assume nothing.

10-rd mags, even if blued, can be lightly sanded, de-greased, spray painted silver, and top-coated with clear spray paint to preserve the silver paint--DO NOT paint the feed lips of the magazine; In fact, don't sand or paint any part of the magazine that is "hidden" inside the rifle when fully seated. For reference, empty Mini-14 mags should "drop-free" if they fit correctly, the 5-rd mag perhaps a little reluctant".

Getting a mag that works properly is the fundamental goal.

Brownells offers a nice series of videos on the Mini-14, and strongly suggest you watch them all.

Good Luck, and please report back.

 

[RIBob]

Thank you very much for the leads and the time. View attachment 13550 The front sight looks to be imbedded into the device. It looks like it could be removed from the device by removing a roll pin but it does not look like the roll pin has anything to do with the device fastening to the barrel, unless there is something hidden under the sight (like a set screw?) I guess I just need to remove the pin and see.

Remove the roll pin completely, and the muzzle device >>should<< slide off the front sight.

 

[RIBob]

Suggest you remove the problematic muzzle device, find some decent and reliable mags, thoroughly clean and lube your Mini, and then sight it in using iron sights. Try multiple types/brands of ammo and take careful notes.

Suggest that spending money on sights and rails at this early point is entirely premature.

Possibly not what you want to hear, but I've tried the same type of scope mount in your pictures, and it's junk, IMHO.

Way too high for a decent cheek weld (without an add-on cheek riser) and unreliable as to holding zero. Personal experience, not a guess.

Never heard of Votatu optics and can't comment except to say I'm highly skeptical as to their quality and durability.

Walk before you run.

 

[RIBob]

Unless I am greatly mistaken, the mount pictured above is originally intended for an M-14/M1A rifle. The dovetail at the rear of the mount is supposed to interface with the dovetail on the M1A/M-14 that originally held the stripper clip guide. Dead give-away.
If you had some mount fitment issues with your Mini-14, that might explain things.

See if you can find some "maker's marks" or names on the mount, and report back. If you are lucky, and if the mount is not buggered-up, it could be worth up to about $200 to the right M-14/M1A owner on a gun forum or on ebay. NIB M14/M1A mounts from top mfrs are about $340.

PLEASE tell me that you did NOT permanently alter the Mini in order to fit the M-14/M1A mount!

There is a similar sight mount made for the Mini-14, but the ones I have used were made of flimsy aluminum and I am not aware of any such scope mount of this type, which is intended for the Mini-14/-30, that I can recommend.

The B-Square Mini-14 scope mount is likely the best option open to you, given your model of Mini, which does not accept most optics gracefully. That's why the later "Ranch" model of Mini was developed. Unfortunately, the B-Square mount is now out of production, but there is one on ebay for about $55. It's in blue, but (rare) silver models exist. If interested, suggest you do some investigation and see if that specific model of B-Square mount will fit your 182 series Mini.

Nowadays, most non-Ranch Mini owners seem to have gravitated towards using Red Dot sights (RDS) mounted with a Quick Release (QR) mechanism atop a "Scout Rail" offered by either Ultimak or Samson. The rail offered by Amega Ranges is well-made but is notably "higher" than either the Samson or Ultimak.

The idea behind this "scout" type rig is to allow the user to have the optic set very low in order for the user to get a good, quick, natural cheek weld without delay. If the optic is low enough (Bushnell TRS-25 or TRS-26 (preferred)) the user may be able to see through it and use the original iron sights. If not, just remove the optic via the QD lever (or other attachment device) and use the iron sights. It's nice to have back-up sights.

This set-up will involve some expense on your part. However, after trying a set-up very similar to the one you are trying, the Ultimak + RDS is miles ahead, to my mind, and to the minds of other users as well. Your call.

Be careful when buying optics for your Mini. Most optics come with a very high "adaptor" intended for use on AR-15 type rifles, but some optics can be used without the adaptor or perhaps have optional low-mounts either from the mfr, or as aftermarket units. RDS are not friendly to folks with astigmatism, so suggest getting your eyes professionally checked--Good idea in any event. Accurate shooting begins with good vision.

Many people at Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 | Perfect Union have come to feel the same way as I do about the "Scout mount" concept. Member sandog has many pix of his Minis with scout rails and RDS pictured there, but you will have to search for them.
Another forum you might investigate is (2) Ruger Semi-Auto | Ruger Forum

IMHO, the Mini is a short-to-middlin" range carbine, and the Scout rail+RDS makes the most of that platform without adding excessive weight/bulk. Minis usually don't benefit much from high-magnification optics, IMHO.

I have given you much to think about. OTOH, I have gone through the same process you are going through in the past, so what I say is said from personal experience, not guesswork.

Your personal preferences may differ, and that's perfectly OK. Just offering you the benefit(?) of my experience and all best wishes!

 

[RIBob]

There are many tweaks possible for your Mini. It having a thin (pencil) barrel, installing a dual clamp Accu-Strut (single clamp struts not nearly as effective, as per mfr) is likely in your future. I prefer the "Drilled" model as it adds less weight forward. Also give some thought to gluing-in some thin incompressible shims inside the stock to eliminate play between the stock and the barreled action/receiver.

Adding a CA-Legal muzzle device to your barrel adds some mass to the end of the barrel, where it is most useful in damping-out barrel whip and shot-stringing induced by heat.

In conjunction with good quality ammo, these three simple things will reduce the size of the groups considerably. You will have reached the "80/20" level where 80% of the gain is realized for 20% of the cost.

Use a good magnifying glass and a good light to inspect the crown of the barrel-- this is where the rifling ends at the muzzle. You are looking for any dings or imperfections in the rifling. If minor issues, a user-done barrel re-crown can be done with simple tools from Brownells. Clean your Mini with a short, plastic-coated, revolving handle cleaning rod and brass tips. Clean from the chamber forward, just as the bullet travels. Make every effort to buy and use a muzzle guide which prevents damage to the rifling often seen in Minis which have been cleaned improperly.

Aside from that, we go into more "advanced" measures, most of which can be easily user-done. Do the shimming first, then the CA-Legal muzzle device, then the Accu-Strut. My 186 series Mini-14 greatly benefitted from all three, and very likely your Mini will also. Make one change at a time, taking notes as to the improvement after installation.

Tech Sights is the go-to for replacement rear sights and perhaps ideas. OEM rear sights probably still available and suggest getting one while still relatively cheap.


All best wishes!

 

[RIBob]

It might be possible to have more than a "hokey" rear sight if you take some care and use small jeweler's files instead of the far less precise Dremel. Suggest dark epoxy as a basis, perhaps Marine-Tex. If required, make "dams" to "hold" the epoxy out of modeler's clay and remove when epoxy has cured.

Suggest investigating optimal distance for sighting-in the Mini. Past 100 yds or so, the 55 gn bullet loses its ability to yaw/fragment within the target--at least with the relatively short Mini barrel.

If you set bullet Point of Impact (POI) slightly high at desired distance, then the rear aperture in the epoxy can be carefully filed down so that bullet POI coincides with Point of Aim (POA). there's your elevation done. If you are OK with a "square" rear aperture, use a square jeweler's file (preferably with a "blind", non-cutting side) to very slightly widen the side of the aperture for windage adjustment.

It can be done, if you have the right tools, and if you wish to go through the hassle.

Best of luck!

 

[RIBob]

Maybe use a mirror to take the pic?

There's more than one epoxy compound suitable for the job. Just be sure to de-grease and perhaps slightly "roughen-up" the area(s) to which the epoxy will be applied. Ask me how I know, lol.

In the (quite likely) event that CA passes yet another anti-gun law which bans all semi-auto rifles which can take a magazine, a mfr/vendor called MagLatch makes devices for many semi-auto rifles which will allow a CA-legal magazine to be installed, the magazine latch to be (reversibly) blocked, and the rifle will then be compliant. Being in CA, perhaps you know more about this than I do, and I will appreciate your advice on the subject. I have bought such devices for various types of semi-auto rifles which I own, "just in case". Always willing to learn from those having more experience than I do.

Cogburn Arsenal is a vendor/mfr that you might want to investigate; many interesting Mini items there as well as other stuff. Not to belabor a point I was making earlier, but in a worst-case "legislation" situation, the Ultimak Scout rail + RDS allows a "Stripper Clip Guide" to be installed over the receiver and the Mini fed like an SKS. If a 10-rd magazine can be used in conjunction with a MagLatch device, the Mini is still useable and technically compliant.

A simpler way to "comply" with such laws concerning semi-auto riles would be to make a straight-pull rifle out of the Mini.

This is most easily done by replacing the OEM "Gas Port" inside the gas block with a similar item which has no internal gas port; IOW, a solid cylinder which prevents gas from escaping the barrel and actuating the Op-Rod. Simple and reversible. You, being a "hobby machinist", should find this to be child's play to make. I wonder if Minis exported to such countries as the UK have this done to them by Ruger.

At any rate, if you are conversant about modifying semi-auto rifles to be "compliant" with the law, I'm more than willing to listen.

Most strongly suggest that you visit the two forums I suggested previously. Reason is you are getting my opinions, and just might benefit from the opinions of other Mini users. I don't think most experienced Mini users will disagree with my suggestions/opinons, but maybe others will have better ideas. Nothing against this forum, but it is kind of "quiet". Strongly suggest you obtain the benefit of the opinions of other experienced Mini users. I sure don't know everything, and I admit it.

All best wishes!

 

[RIBob]

Thinking about this more, while the open sight sounds like a fun project, it might be more practical to just pack a second pre-sighted QR sight in my bag. For example, I have both an Eotech halo and a Vortec red dot..I'll have to look into those qr mounts. Maybe something like the Monstrum tactical qr?

World is your oyster as far as sights go. I had to look for a LOW QR base for my TSR-25 and TSR-26 RDSs (different bases, IIRC), but I found them. Takes some digging, and ebay often sells stuff not available on amazon.

 

[RIBob]

The knob attached to the scope base probably will not be an issue, but test-firing will tell the tale.

There is a raised portion on the side of the rail (shooter's right), near the front of the receiver about which I would be much more concerned.

As mentioned previously, the boss is there because the mount is for a M-14/M1a rifle, with a longer cartridge. See similar rear "boss/projection behind rear sight. Suitable for larger 7.62 ctg, but possibly unsat for smaller 5.56/.223 ctg.

In short, you have the wrong scope mount for your Mini. Sorry, but there it is.

One of the fundamental problems with almost all "over the Receiver" scope rails is that such make removal of the bolt for periodic cleaning quire a hassle. Unlike the later Ranch Rifle Mini, Your Mini has no OEM provisions for mounting a rail over the action. Even so, some Mini Ranch rifle users report hassles when trying to remove the bolt with rail installed. That's why most experienced Mini users have forsworn such mounts and gone to the Scout rail for RDS optics. Eotech also a possibility with the Scout rail.

I think I have gotten able to "understand" you during our posts back and forth. I share many similar characteristics, and perhaps I sense them in you.

There comes a time when trying to make something work (in your specific case an item NOT intended for your MINI) becomes a time-consuming and ultimately pointless exercise.

I say this as someone who (I think) understands your wanting to "fix" this puzzle. I understand the allure of a "challenge". I also say this as a friend, with no axe to grind: You are wasting your valuable time.

Yes, you can probably spend hours of your valuable time on the project, but in the bitter end, you will still have something that is unsatisfactory, no matter how much you tweak it.

I don't say this lightly and said with ALL respect to you. I've gone down the "rabbit hole" on some projects, so I think I understand. Don't re-invent the wheel. Don't waste your time on a project when there are FAR better "of-the-shelf" alternatives.

Strongly suggest going on other (suggested) forums, explaining your situation there, and get other opinions.

All best Wishes!

 

[RIBob]

Other than several shotguns and a couple rimfires, I only have one semi rifle. It's my absolutely limited 4 shot 300 win mag Benelli R-1. And it is a tack driver like I have never seen in an auto loader
But I really don't know too much about the CA laws as they relate to something like the mini-14.
I have heard that if you have something called a mag lock (or something like that) that most of the other restrictions, like folding stocks, thumholds, etc. go out the window but don't take my word on this. It's just a lead to research. I guess the mag lock makes loading/unloading individual rounds through the breach your only option.
You could still use a speed loader but I don't think so if you have optics over the breach.

As I said, in the "likely" event that CA bans all semi-autos, then my suggestions might be useful, if you want to keep the Mini; Otherwise sell it off, destroy it, give it to the Cops, or modify it. File my suggestions away and do some research as time allows. Suggest your "time" for research is limited. Such laws likely coming here in RI, so I have tried to plan ahead as best I can. I'm not destroying any heretofore legally owned item, nor destroying it, nor turning it into the Cops/Gov't. My call perhaps not yours.

You, my friend (and I mean that), are about to witness the effects of existent and forthcoming CA anti-gun laws will have on you and your Mini.

Maybe I seem paranoid, but past experience says not. Forewarned is forearmed. Plan ahead. As TR said: Make preparations in advance ... you never have trouble if you are prepared for it."