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1st post!

Sorry if this is a 'redundant' question but...
I did search but I guess I am not good at and could not find the answer.

Gun is a Rugger 10/22.

I want to shoot the smallest groups possible at 100 yards(I know it is 'kind of' individual gun dependent) .

What ammo would you best recommendation to start with(I would really like something that's not to expensive)?
 

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Ok, your not gonna hold tight groups, or very good groups at all with inexpensive .22lr ammo. The quality control just aint there.

Keeping tight groups, (1 1/2" size or less) at 100 yards is not easy with a 36 grn or 40 grn bullet in .22LR. Easier with .22 magnum.

I love trying to do just that. I have a Savage FVSR .22lr bolt action , just for bench shooting at 100 yrds, and EVERYTHING ( wind, temp,humidity, cold barrel, hot barrel, clean bore, dirty bore, too much coffe, too little coffee) will affect the little bullet.

You will do best with SK, Lapua, or Wolf match grade high quality ammo.
It aint cheap.

I shoot cheap bulk ammo for fun, and it will do 3-4 "groups(maybe) with flyers out to 8" at 100 yrds.

My best groups (1"and less ) have been Using SK match rifle grade.

Good luck, have fun.

Jim
 

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Think of it this way........if at 100 yards you could keep your shots in a 4" paper plate then any critter would be a goner.
I buy cheap ammo for all my guns so I can blame my pee poor shooting on the ammo and not my jittery hands.
 

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don't know if this is the same question as the other day, but, I will repeat for my marlin model 60sn, I find my best groups (as in one of the other respondents in this exchange, if it stays on 4" or under, it is probably ok for hunting) , in no wind, my best groups are with both winchester and minimag 36 gr hollow points. In wind, I switch over to federal match or norma tac-22 40 grain solids. I have no idea how a 10-22 would do for you.
 

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Lapua or Eley. Not sure what it costs where you live, but here the Lapua goes for 5.99 to 9.99 depending on which grade you get. The Eley runs 7.99 to 12.99 depending on grade. For the cheap stuff, I have always found Winchester super - x to perform best, but who know what your gun will like best? Trying them all out is a good excuse to shoot more!
 

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I like my 10/22s, but I wouldn't really consider them the best grouping rifles at 100 yds even under the best conditions & with the best ammo. And I won't spend the $ on parts to modify them into some kinda heavy barreled rifle with a better trigger and fancy stock. I like them as they are. If ai was going to do the 100 yd. thing for accuracy, i would go with t bolt gun if all was going to shoot was a .22 LR. However, for that distance, I use a .22 magnum bolt gun.
 

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In MY opinion, factory stock 10/22 barrels simply have too sloppy of chambers in the quest of reliability. You CAN set back your barrel by facing & recut extractor groove which will help tighten the chamber a lot BUT you have to know what you're doing or you will mess it up. The simplest way to go is an aftermarket barrel. If interested I will outline how to set back a factory barrel. Until you get a tighter chamber I honestly don't think you're going to get great results at 100 yards regardless of what ammo you use.
 

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stalking bear, i am a new gunsmith. I was a machinist for 25 years so most barrel work would be easy with proper instruction. What can you tell me about the chamber work you are describing here
 

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This question makes an interesting point when trying to set up a scope. If you are not shooting a very accurate gun as well as excellent quality performing ammo then a person could spend all day trying to set up a scope for a very consistent shooting. It seems to me the scope could be blamed for not holding setting when it isn't even the scope's fault. For many years I thought how did that zinger happen, now I find out it might not have been my shaking hand. Yup I will now blame it on the ammo as being defective. LOL just kidding. I can't have that many defective rounds.
Interesting question that can have so many variables.
How many of ya'll remember the old 8 tracks where you had to stick folded up paper under the cassette to make it work right? Yep I am that old.
 

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For many years I thought how did that zinger happen, now I find out it might not have been my shaking hand. Yup I will now blame it on the ammo as being defective. LOL just kidding. I can't have that many defective rounds.
Its not so much "defective rounds,
It boils down to quality control.

Take a handful of bulk packed Remington (or any bulk) and start measuring the length and then weighing them....you will see a lot of inconsistency. Even have had many of the bullets crooked or spin in the case, :rolleyes: ever seen that?

Now open a box of Lapua , SK, or Wolf match grade, you wont see that.

That's why there are so many FLYERS (I call them) ,
I can shoot 1 inch groups with high quality ammo, using a good rifle , consistently. (under good conditions),
Using the same rifle, switch to the bulk stuff and get many flyers, out to 8", and lucky to get a 4" group of any kind.

If I'm sighting in a new scope, your right, using cheap ammo, makes it almost impossible, use the quality stuff, then play , plink, with the cheaper bulk.


That's just been my experience.


Jim
 

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I guess I need buy some good 22lr for setting up my new red dot on my SW22.
I have noticed loose and crooked bullets in bulk ammo.
 

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stalking bear, i am a new gunsmith. I was a machinist for 25 years so most barrel work would be easy with proper instruction. What can you tell me about the chamber work you are describing here

Basically all you're doing is setting the barrel back a bit, a very small amount. What the factory Ruger 10/22 chamber is tapered so by shortening the chamber a very small amount, you're getting into the tighter portion. Of course you still have to move the shank back the same amount, make or shim the V block holding the barrel on so when the 2 long screws are tightened the barrel is still tight, and you MUST recut the extractor groove deeper a corresponding amount. By doing that, the barrel now has a lot tighter chamber, ammo/bullet is centered and not possibly crooked when chambered like the factory sloppy chamber is, that ensures the cartridge being straight so bullet yaw is gone. You'll also want to face off the front of the bolt to where the case head recess is .043. That gives you tighter headspace but will still chamber any ammo except Stingers and that mexican super fast equivalent whatever it is. If I'm not explaining myself clearly please let me know & I'll email you some drawings that I'll make.

By doing that, I've seen groups shrink by more than 1/2 the size of stock factory, from over 1.5" groups at 50 yards to 1/2 or 3/4". For those wanting a "sleeper" I'd also recommend grinding the inside of barrel band where it contacts the barrel under the top so it don't put pressure and glass bedding receiver & first couple inches of barrel. That way it looks identical to factory stock but shoots much better, especially if you try different ammo in it to choose what it "likes".
 

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Phideaux has made a good point when it comes to the quality of the ammo you buy for any .22 cal. Years ago we used to buy Winchester Wildcat which was a good and accurate. When we shot competition we would shoot Eley. I tried using Remington Thunderbolts and I can tell you it was a waste of money. It has been years since I have had a 10/22 however I had good luck with them out to 50-75 yards. Wind, humidity, windage and bullet drop, temperature and much more has a bearing on how that little round will fly. I used to have and still have a Remington 541S which is a tremendous shooter. We used to shoot metallic targets at 100 yds with our .22's to see how well we could do. These weren't the pigs, they were the little roosters. They wouldn't always fall but you could hear the plink. I have a Weaver 40th anniversary 4X scope on it and that's all I used and we shot off hand. But over 40 years have passed and the eyes and steadiness has failed on me. You can spend on easy $500.00 on your Ruger however it depends on what your needs and desires are and you may NOT get your desired results. When I used to hunt squirrels which I loved to do, I would only go for head shots and most of those shots were under 50 yards and I am sure most were much shorter than that. If your desire is to shoot 1 1/2" groups at 100 yards. I would start with a premium ammo and work my way up from there. But as I previously stated, you can spend a whole bunch of money and you have to decide if it is worth it. Choose wisely grasshopper. Best of luck!

Tommy
 

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I have a plain synthetic stock 10/22 carbine.
The modifications I've made include a trigger and hammer from Clark's Custom Guns and a Vortex 2-7 power scope.

Before the .22 shortage I was experimenting with 'pressure pads' under the barrel at the barrel band area.
All I got out of that was constant grouping with a cold -OR- a warm barrel and possibly a little better accuracy using my cheap ammo.
Next was going to be bedding but...... ammo shortage. Now I'll probably leave well enough alone with this rifle.

With Win bulk 36gr HP and CCI 36gr HP Mini Mag ammo it will put about 7 or 8 out of 10 in the 3/4" circle I use as a target at 50 yd.
I commonly get 2~3 flyers (out of 10) with this ammo, sometimes more sometimes less. CCI seems to do better than Win. (Shooting off sand bags).

At 100 yards groups open up quite a bit. Last time I was shooting at 100 yd I could see a flyer spiraling to the target through my scope set at 7 power.
That bullet had to be heavier on one side (or no telling what) to make it do that. It was a strange sight. But cheap ammo is cheap ammo.

This is my squirrel rifle and fun gun for cheap plinking.
Shooting without a rest, I'm not steady enough to shoot better than this rifle shoots so this set up will work for small game at less than 50 yd.

A guy would need something better for serious 100 yd accuracy.
 

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What yall said is very true. It all depends on the level of commitment & intensity you're at. Most people don't ever go to competition level commitment (rifle/handgun, scope, ammo, gunsmithing work, amount of practice & money involved) and don't want to. In fact since becoming disabled, and on extremely limited fixed income, I find I'm wouldn't even seriously consider scopes, barrels, ammo, etc that I used to not blink an eye at spending. To each their own has never been truer and we all enjoy our way of life (SOO MUCH more than simply a sport) regardless of what we shoot! Some, like me, are never content with out of box performance, and I'm blessed with a fair amount of knowledge from having my own gunsmith shop all those years. I couldn't imagine being satisfied with 1.5" groups at 100 yards personally but then I don't count my time (labor) even if extensive, being my own personal firearms.
 
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