I also have them in every caliber that I load. Typically because I prefer to crimp seperately from seating. The Lee FCD is about the cheapest crimp die you can buy and they work fine. The pistol calibers have a taper crimp and the revolver calibers have a roll crimp. Both work great. If your load is set up right you will hardly feel any sizing at all. If you overcrimp and bulge the case you will feel it get sized on the way out.
That being said there are times I do not use them. They work best with jacketed and plated bullets. I do not use them for lead with semi auto pistol dies.
When I use a 250 grain lead bullet meant for a .45 Colt in a .45 auto case the sizing portion of the crimp die will squeeze the .452 bullet pretty hard. I need the full diameter of the bullet to work well in my .45 convertable revolvers so I use a Hornady taper crimp die to just take the flare out of the case and it works well. Same goes for a 200grain LSWC that I use in my 1911's, revolvers and XDM45.
I do use them for lead in my standard revolver loads.
I have a factory crimp die for every die set that I own. I would not consider reloading without it. It is easy to install and easy to set. If you change bullet type i.e. .355 to .356 just pull one and check it.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.