Help! cant retract bolt on Mk.II competition

Discussion in 'Ruger Rimfire Forums' started by hhersh, Jul 13, 2014.

  1. hhersh

    hhersh New Member

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    I just got my Ruger competition target out to fondle her after being stored for 1 year. I went to check to see that she was unloaded, and I cannot retract the bolt to look in the chamber...what is wrong ? help please...Harold:eek:
     
  2. Win94ae

    Win94ae New Member

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    Sometimes when my brothers put together their Rugers, (Mark 1 and 2,) wrong, the bolt doesn't retract.
    Of course, there could be other issues, but that's been the only issue for that condition around my house.

    Good luck with it... make sure you tell us what the remedy was.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2014

  3. Win94ae

    Win94ae New Member

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    Here is a video I made on assembling the Ruger Mark II... just in case.

    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nisXLtX1-M[/ame]
     
  4. buster40c

    buster40c Well-Known Member

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    I just got my MKII out the other day and at first the slide didn't want to move. I did then drop the mag then I just tried again and it let loose. That was the only time that ever happened in 20 years.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2014
  5. Pancho_Villa

    Pancho_Villa Well-Known Member

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    Most likely your hammer strut is out of position from the mainspring housing. The hammer is usually locked int he down position or fired position and the hamer strut can lock up on a crosspin in the giip frame. Tha will keep the hammer from coming back when yhou try to pull the bolt back. This is if you have ever had the mainspring assembly completely out and did not put it back right.

    Start by removing the mainspring housing. Chjeck the hammer strut. It is visible through the opening left by the mainspring houjsing. If it is hung up on anything, just loosen it. The bolt should retract free then. You may want to check the end of the recoil spring at this point to see if there is any damage from the mainspring pin, If you have ever taken it down that far. If it looks o.k. put the bolt and recoil spring back in with the hammer in the cocked position. Now pull the trigger and push the hammer forward tot he fired position. It is the best position to be to reassemble. The hammer strut should be hanging free at the opening in the back of the gun.

    Now fully seat the mainspring pin in the gun. If you rurn the gun over at this point, you should see the hammer strut. Keep it in line with the mainspring housing. There is a notch in the housing that the strut should line up with to hit the mainspring correctly. If it does not position correctly, you will have the same problem again.

    You may want to take a close look at the mainspring housing while you have it out to find the notch that the hammer strut is suppose to lock into. This is usually the problem. However, I have seen some guns that have separated the small metal piece at the back end of the recoil spring. This usually happens when people have taken off the upper part of the gun from the lower receiver. Then they do not line the upper and lower correctly when they lock them back together. This thtows the alignment of the hole for the mainspring pin off from the upper and lower. Then when they try to force the mainspring pin into the gun, they bend the metal piece at the end of the recoil spring. It sometimes gets bent out so far it will drag on the inside of the upper receiver and lock the gun up also. Happened alot on an old Mk I I had that had the top end off many times. The locking lug at the front of the gun was so loose you could pull the upper off with your hands. Best not to take the upper off unless ya have to.

    I don't even waste my time with field stripping the guns. I just swap the guns out with the bolt open using Q-tips and bore cleaner. Then I use the Q-tips dry to clean the crud out. saves alot of time and aggravation. Have 3 MKIIs right now and I have been cleaning them like that for 15 years. The old, worn out, MKis are long gone.
     
    valvestem likes this.
  6. mark

    mark Member

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    Pancho Villa..
    I have never seen a Mark that was wore out. What was wore out? I have had a couple of stainless disconnecters break, but have had them welded and they are still running. I have heard of bores with some wear, which came mostly from bore brushes and cleaning rods, I would guess. I have had to replace some firing pins, and other parts, but the gun wasn't wore out.
    If I could have had one wish in life in my world of guns, it would be that every gun that I have ever taken down, and put back together again, would have been as simple as the Ruger Mark..
    I do have a 10" Mark 11 with probably somewhere around 100,000 through it, that suffered a broken disconnect in its trip. I did have another one just the same that must have been a built on Monday gun. It wasn't wore out, it just kept needing replacement parts. Gone at 60,000 rounds.
    Just Me...
    Up until about five years ago when I got into shooting revolvers double action, I shot mostly Ruger Mark 1 and 11s, tens of thousands of rounds. I love them...
     
    valvestem likes this.
  7. Pancho_Villa

    Pancho_Villa Well-Known Member

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    Used the term "wore out" as an excuse to buy the then new MKIIs, They were blue, a standard 4", a 5.5 bull, and a 6 7/8" tapered bull barrel. Actuallyony one was kinda finish worn. The first one I got in 75. Wife used it most of the time and didn't want to let it go. Told her it was "wore out." Now I don't need excuses to get new ones. Sold the 2 bull barrel blue guns to get stainless ones like them. Wife still uses the 4" blue one. Still like new. We hardly shoot them at all. So, I guess that one won't bet "wore out." Don't care much for the MKIIIs anyway. And I pick up a few MKis now and then, but they usually get swapped. Sometimes I don't even get to fire them. Never actually broke a part in ne yet, but I have fixed a few that others had.
     
    valvestem likes this.
  8. mark

    mark Member

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    Wore-out would never work at my house. Wife thinks I can fix anything. Besides that, I told her that all those old guns that I stuck away were a good investment, and that she would be rich when they put me in the home. Also told her not to sell them to any of my old friends, because after dealing with them for years, I think they are all crooks...
     
  9. Redleg

    Redleg New Member

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    In my experience this always means that the hammer strut was out of place when the gun was reassembled.

    This is VERY easy to fix.

    1. Pull the mainspring housing out of the grip but do not pull the bolt stop pin out.

    2. Hold the barrel vertical and give the muzzle a good hard tap with a rubber mallet.

    3. Re-insert the mainspring housing into the grip. As you do the very last bit of insertion you should feel spring tension. This means that the hammer strut is in position.

    The above technique has never failed me to get the hammer strut in the right position when assembling any Mark or Standard pistola.
     
    valvestem likes this.
  10. Win94ae

    Win94ae New Member

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    I don't think they are coming back.
     
  11. Pancho_Villa

    Pancho_Villa Well-Known Member

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    I like to have guys with Ruger MKs come by my table at the gunshows. Especiallty when they took one apart and have given up on trying to reassemble them.:D
     
  12. Redleg

    Redleg New Member

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    I will never forget the night I taught myself how to reassemble a Mark pistol. I invented swear words that even soldiers and sailors have never heard. Once I got it figured out though, no sweat.

    One observation. A lot of guys have a long complicated explanation about how to position the little hammer strut before closing the mainspring housing into the grip. (Fit into a groove, etc.) Forget all that. Just point the barrel in the air, whack the muzzle with a rubber mallet, then close the MHA. In hundreds of reassemblies this has never failed.

    You can tell that you have done everything right with the hammer strut when you close the MHA into the grip and there is spring tension the very last bit of the way as you close into the grip. If not, another whack on the muzzle per above will do the trick.