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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my GP100 last December. I had to send it to Ruger within 2 weeks because the cylinder suddenly stopped rotating while firing. I couldn't even pull the trigger back more than 1/2 way.

They returned it with a note that the ejector rod was replaced. I fired it many times without issue from winter through springtime at the range, and then put it in the safe for a couple of months.

Today while at the range, after firing about 75 rounds (.38 and .357) it jammed up again. The same exact issue as the first time around.

Something is happening as the barrel and cylinder heat up. There is obviously an unacceptable degree of expansion that is literally locking up the cylinder.

I'm no expert, but this is kind of ridiculous. I have 4 S&W revolvers, and have never had an issue with any of them. I bought the Ruger after a lot of research, and tons of positive reviews and opinions. And I totally agree it's built like a tank. But....

I see a lot of other posts on other forums regarding this issue. It's not just with my gun.

I am hoping Ruger does the right thing and gives me a new one. I now have zero confidence with this one. And that's a bad thing for sure.

Does anyone have an answer as to what is causing this?
 

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Could be lots of things. Bent ejector rod, ejector rod worked loose, high primer. Squib and you have a bullet jammed in the forcing cone, crimp jump, tight end play and the revolver is just dirty.

Hard to say without looking at the revolver.

I just unjammed an N frame S&W whose ejector rod unscrewed, I have cleared a Charter Arms jammed with a squib. A Taurus M85 jammed because of crimp jump. A S&W J frame jammed with powder flakes under the ejection star.

Revolvers, contrary to belief, will jam. Usually because of outside forces, but it could be an issue with the firearm itself. Flipping the cylinder shut will bend the ejector rod and is one of the biggest reason I have seen for revolvers to jam.

Give it a chance, it just might not be an issue with the revolver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks greg-r. The ejector rod was replaced by Ruger. I've shot no more than 400 rounds since the repair, and I clean it after every range session. I even unloaded the chamber after it seized, and put 6 new rounds in. Same thing happened twice. I was shooting Federal .357 158 grain rounds. They were cycling just fine until it really heated up.

I understand that things can happen that will cause a malfunction, but with them happening at this frequency, it makes no sense to me. The gun is only 9 months old. This thing should handle anything with ease.

I will contact Ruger tomorrow for an RMA and hopefully get this issue behind me. I've swapped it out for another gun in the meantime as my home defense choice.
 

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Do you have a feeler gage, or .001 feeler stock? You could check cylinder-to-forcing cone with that. Although, if the cylinder swings out to reload, that may not by a likely problem.

Does the gun cycle with no cartridges in the cylinder? No? Aha! (No diagnosis, just aha)

If it jams only after 'really heating up', home defense is probably within its capability as is - unless you're in a hell of a gun battle.

You are right though, it hadn't ought to be doing it. See if you can talk to a gunsmith at Ruger when you call; I think sometimes the details get abridged along the communication path.
 

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I had a GP100 Match Champion did the same thing. I sent it to Ruger and they said they fixed it. I shot it 75 times and it locked up again. I sent it back and asked that they shoot the gun at least 75 times to see if it was fixed before returning it to me. The return report said they replaced the pawl I believe and that they fired it 75 times with no problems. The gun had no malfunctions after that for me. I sold the gun some time after that to get a S&W 627-5 Pro series.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you have a feeler gage, or .001 feeler stock? You could check cylinder-to-forcing cone with that. Although, if the cylinder swings out to reload, that may not by a likely problem.

Does the gun cycle with no cartridges in the cylinder? No? Aha! (No diagnosis, just aha)

If it jams only after 'really heating up', home defense is probably within its capability as is - unless you're in a hell of a gun battle.

You are right though, it hadn't ought to be doing it. See if you can talk to a gunsmith at Ruger when you call; I think sometimes the details get abridged along the communication path.
Thanks. I am hoping to do just that when they receive it. I need to talk this through with someone who will get it, analyze it, and solve it. The gun cycles without issue without cartridges. But run her over 50 rounds, and when she's really warm/hot, it's show time. Or no show time in this case.
 

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I think mine locked up loaded or not. I bet the shell casing heads are hitting the recoil backing plate. Possibly from the cylinder moving backward from to much play or the gap at the forcing cone to cylinder is to tight and getting carboned up.
Totally untrained armchair diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think mine locked up loaded or not. I bet the shell casing heads are hitting the recoil backing plate. Possibly from the cylinder moving backward from to much play or the gap at the forcing cone to cylinder is to tight and getting carboned up.
Totally untrained armchair diagnosis.
Thanks. Pretty sure that's it. The backing plate has an arched scratch corresponding to the cylinder cycling with the casing heads grinding on it once that unheated gap disappears and its "bone on bone".. ( equally untrained armchair diagnosis ;-) )
 

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................
 

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SavageGuy, what does ................... mean?

I posted something that I didn't realize had already been posted and I can't delete posts on mobil so "................" is as good as it gets ;-)
 

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............there is a will there is a way. Take this.............then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I spoke with Ruger this morning. The woman I spoke with was very helpful. I was told to request a replacement in lieu of what's happening with mine. She did say that's no guarantee they will. Short of that, I asked that a gun smith contact me once he or she inspects the gun to further discuss. I was given a RMA# and off it went to NH.

Either way I'll post how this ends up. I'm estimating a couple of weeks. Thanks guys.
 

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I would be totally surprised if Ruger customer service does not reconcile your situation. They are normally on top of what it takes to make a customer happy. If it's a mechanical malfunction due to the construction of the gun, they will correct it to the customers satisfaction. I am unaware of anyone having a problem not taken care of.

Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE: Ruger just called to inform me that they are replacing the GP100 with a new one. It is being sent to a local FFL and I will have it soon. Kudos to Ruger. Man am I relieved!

Thanks for listening and replying!
 

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That's Ruger CS for ya. They always come through.....
 

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UPDATE: Ruger just called to inform me that they are replacing the GP100 with a new one. It is being sent to a local FFL and I will have it soon. Kudos to Ruger. Man am I relieved!

Thanks for listening and replying!
I hope we eased your mind some. I figure CS replaced the gun because there's no good way to remove the gouge the case heads made in the frame; so no 'fix and return' would be cosmetically appealing.

:cool:
 

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Can't beat Ruger even with a written warranty. S&W has a written lifetime warranty but it seems S&W warranty work/customer service is very lacking and not even as quick as Ruger.
So glad to hear Ruger is replacing your gun. There have been several here that got their guns replaced without having to set a bon fire of arguments under CS.
 

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I've sent two handguns back to Ruger this month for repairs.They were both repaired and sent back within two weeks. One of them was something I caused, and they repaired without a charge. Customer service has always been great.
 
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