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Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by DrDenby, Dec 30, 2015.
In what circumstances would I want to replace a stock firing pin spring with an extra power?
What gun are we referring to ? More details would help.
If you changed a titanium pin to one of steel, perhaps.
A stronger spring gives a shorter time between when sear releases, and when the pin strikes the primer.
You install the stronger spring if you think those milliseconds make a difference in how accurate you shoot.
For normal humans it can't, and is a reason to spend more money on gun parts.
Intermittent light primer strikes may warrant it.
Original spring may have become a little weak.
I agree if the stock spring has weakened you should replace with a stock spring first. You may compound your troubles if the stronger spring causes a new problem.
Hah. I wonder why nobody thinks the subject is rebound spring?
OK, something isn't making sense here.
Or it could be I have it all ass backward.
It seems like an extra power firing pin spring would cause even lighter strikes.
When the hammer hits the back of the firing pin, wouldn't more energy be lost driving it into a heavier spring before it contacts the primer?
Causing even lighter strikes?
Yes, but if the mass of the pin changes, like from aluminum or titanium to steel, you would need a heavier spring.....just me thinking out loud.....
Hell, with it. Picked up a extra power spring for $3 total.
Put it in one of my 1911.
Will see what it does at the range.
Cant hurt anything, right? worst that happens is I get failures to fire.
Hah, hell with your hell-with-it. I feel the need to inquire.
All the rebound spring has to do is retract the firing pin back into the bolt, right? Is the stronger spring an attempt to overcome gumminess and or dirt in the bolt? Whazzup there anyway?
No, no problems.
My inquiry was prompted by an overheard conversation by a couple guys as they were getting in their truck to drive away from the range.
So I had no opportunity to ask questions.
The one said that he has been trying to replace all of his firing pin springs with extra power springs.
It seemed like such an odd thing to do.
So I was wondering why one would want to replace the springs like that.
I haven't been able to shoot the 1911 that I put the ep spring in yet. Keeps raining each day I have the chance to go.
Comment on a 2015 post! When the striker spring in your 36 year old 77-22 looks all rusty!
The firing pin spring is a RETURN spring. If someone is getting "intermittent" light strikes, why the hell would they want to add an extra power spring?
Getting light strikes, you then might consider a heavier hammer spring.
Who uses "aluminum" firing pins? And why would you need a "heavier" return spring for a titanium firing pin? Goes against the laws of physics.
Carl, in a way, I'm sorta grateful when those, like yourself, exhume some of these older posts. It certainly does answer some of the questions as to "why" this forum ended up like Rip Van Winkle and snored like a thunderstorm for too many years.
Back in the day, when I first got involved with this venue, they had a 'moderator' who was very full of himself and the miniscule power he had to "ban" anybody that disagreed with the errant crap he posted.
The guy had an avatar of some mutt licking on the inside glass of a window, and I still believe that was the beginning of the Covid 19 virus!
Well, I figured I wasn't the only one in the world who doesn't look into his bolt internals very often...I must have been bored, reading old posts! Due to the Covid mess, I haven't been able to shoot it...that plus our local range has a straaange schedule, or at least did before it got too cold. Spring is coming...somewhere in the world!
How often the bolt is inspected depends on how often you feel the need. Don't need any permission to do that from some wanna-be "hall-monitor" who can't even get his own act together.
For a spate of time after the Ruger Mark III pistols came out, there was such a flurry involved with sales that Ruger would run out of the solid firing pin stop pins, which they out-source from a local manufacturing entity. So, what they did was substitute a slotted roll-pin that had an over-all length 1/8 inch too short. Depending on how that slot was positioned, either at 6 or 12 O'Clock, the hammer striking the hard firing pin would cause the slotted pin to collapse and the firing pin would then put a chamber mouth ding in the breech face. Not a good thing to have, so in another forum I posted that information, and we did a survey with 50% of Mark III owner responders having the slotted pin and the other 50% having the correct solid stop pin with the proper length.
So, once in a while it does pay to at least check the bolt for any noticeable issues.