Canted Barrel, GP100

Discussion in 'Ruger Revolver Forums' started by Bob1943, Sep 5, 2014.

  1. Bob1943

    Bob1943 New Member

    Do any of you guys have a GP100 with a canted barrel?

    I bought a new 3" GP100 about a year ago and was not aware of what a canted barrel was at that time. Read about the issue on some forums about 3 months ago and immediately grabbed all my revolvers and checked the barrels. They all looked good except for my 3" GP100. It was overclocked by about 1 degree.

    I contacted Ruger and they told me to take it to the range and shoot it at 15 yards and send them a picture of the target. My range only has 11-yard and 25-yard range lines to bracket that distance. I shot with my hands on a sandbag. At 11-yards, I had about a 6.5" group, with holes to both the right & left of the bullseye. At 25-yards, the grouping was about 7", but I only got 8 of 13 rounds on an 8" target.

    I had a real problem with the black front sight blade against the black target background, very difficult to get a good sight picture. To compound the problem, I shoot with bifocals, so you either see the target in focus or the front sight, not both at the same time.

    I just painted the front sight blade red, so I will hit the range again and see if I can aim a little better.

    Like I said, I did not have a consistant grouping at any location on the target, so at this point, it is hard to conclude what impact the canted barrel has on the POI/POA.

    Anyone have any experience with canted barrels?
  2. Pancho_Villa

    Pancho_Villa Well-Known Member

    Oh yeah!!! On which gun or brand. I swap alot at gunshows and get quite a few trade ins with canted sights, barrels or whatever ya want to call it. Since they are used, I usually beeeetch about the problem to the owner to get a cheapo swap. Anyway, ya want a few solutions from a used gun swapper, I have some with no guaranttees. Really wouldn't advise any to a novice gun tinker-er.

    Biggest problem is that most people don't notice the problem till they go shoot the gun and fires way off to one side. And a little bit of cant won't matter if the gun is shooting within what ya need for combat use.

    A ruger Super Blackhawk .44 mag. Front sight was leaning a good bit, like the full thickness of the sight. Tried to lock the barrel in a vise and turn it in cause it was off to the right. Gun shot a full 5" to the left at 10 or so yds. Well, the barrel on that one would not budge. Next thing I try and it can lead to damage is bending the front sight a bit. In the case of this gun, it was a good bit. Locked barrel in a vise again. Always taking care not to damage the finish on the barrel. Put a Crescent wrench down tight over the front sight and give it a few raps with a heavy metal mallet. Ya have to check it as it goes, or you can go too far. Front sights on those guns muct be on there really well, cause it bent till it was straight up.the base still looked canted, but it sure as hell zeroed right up. Had to polish and cold blue the front sight of course. It did get some marks on it. Probably would have been better to send it to the mother ship to reset the barrel. However, I have to fix them quick to move them.

    Taurus Model 66 in .357 mag. with 4" tube. That sucker was pretty easy. Front sight was off to the right and it shot a good bit to the left. When I chucked that barrel in a vise and turned the receiver, it just spun around loose. So, I got it up to where it was straight and it still had some give to the left. Had to carefully peen the edge of the barrel at the rear end where it met with the frame till it was just a quarter turn from getting tight. Degreased al the threads. Put some Locktite on the threads and set it where it was straight up. Shot great with no visible finish problems.

    A S&W Model 36 Chefs Special. That one had a pinned barrel, so forget trying to get the pin out. Too risky for damage. Just chucked it in a vise and did the Crescent wrench and heavy mallet thing to it. That one was really leaning and had a problem with the front locking lug under the barrel too. Had to take some metal off the catch under the barrel and a bit off the inside of the ejector rod to get it to lock up correctly. That one worked o.k. shot to point of aim, but the sight base really looked off to one side.

    A S&W Model 10 in .38 spl. Hard to find one that doesn't work right. Got one that was worse tahn the Chief's Special. Never could get the barrel lug to work perfectly well. They should not let guns like that out of the [email protected] factory.

    Numerous of the low buck .22 single actions with allloy frames. If they are new looking I usually just bend the front sight a bit. Some of the older beaters usually have problems with the barrel getting loose in the frames. Some are screwed in some just press fit and pinned. A little bit of Locktite on the screw ins with a good degrease. Best to put the pressed ones back in with 30 minute epoxy and reset the pin. If a pin is keeping one from gettin a front sight straight, ya can just file a small goove for the pin in the barrel till the sight lines up straight and then epoxy it. Alot of those have fugly frames that have the anodizing worn off. A good polish, degrease and enamel paint on the receiver will make them work a few more years.

    Rifles and shotguns can be off too. I hate jacking with the rifles with canted sights. If they are drilled and tapped for a scope, that is the easy solution. Shotguns, I would hardly mess with. Requires shooting and patterning the guns. Too much to ness with.

    Probably more info than ya really wanted. Easy tiing to do is to find some ammo it likes and groups tight. Then you will have an idea if the degree of cant is worth messing with. The 8" groups at 11 yds ain't that great. If a gun won't group that well and the sights are straight enough, I usually look at different ammo. Then look at misalignment of cylinders with the barrel's forcing cone. But that is another story or 2.

    How about a Sevice Six that shot a full 4 inches to one side at 10 yds. and the sights were straight up. A quick look at the forcing cone showed shaving of lead from lead bullets. Hard to tell with jacketed. Took some grinding with a dremel to get the forcing cone tapered down on one side to get the groups ot move

    Or a gun with some chambers that line up and some that don't.

    Lucky I go through alot of guns. I usually keep all the ones that group well and work well. Fix the others as best I can and move them along.

  3. Bob1943

    Bob1943 New Member

    Thanks for the comments.

    I have no intention of trying to straighten up the barrel myself. If my next range trip with the new painted red front sight does not allow me to group better, then I will probably ask Ruger to fix the barrel. My experience with their customer service has been excellent. I would guess that they would repair this at no cost to me, since it is a factory defect. The only possible problem is that the cant is so very slight that they might say it is within spec.

    If someone did not know that the barrel had a slight cant, they would not notice it by looking at the sight picture, i.e., the front sight blade pretty much looks vertical (as far as a casual observer is concerned) when aiming. A 1-degree cant on that front blade is not readily noticeable.
  4. hockeyref

    hockeyref New Member

    Have a SBH 44 mag with the long barrel that I used for IHMSA in the '90's. It has the front sight a bit out to the right like Pancho has.... It actually let the gun sit more comfortably when shooting Creedmor position. The gun would hit shoot-off chickens at 200 yards so didn't complain. Have considered contacting Ruger about it recently, but I really don't have the time to deal with it. I have also considered clamping the frame in a vise and using a barrel wrench on it, or the other way around with the barrel in a vise and some fixture on the frame with a long persuasion bar.....

    Not getting rid of it anytime soon, and it shoots so it really is just a visual annoyance at this point....especially since I haven't shot silhouettes in years.
  5. Bob1943

    Bob1943 New Member

    I indicated the cant was about 1-degree. I measured the distance from the top of the frame to the barrel rib on both the right and left sides of the barrel. Right side was .041" and the left was .048". So the difference is .007" which is equivalent to 1/143 of an inch.

    Does not sound like much, but it is visible when looking down the barrel from the muzzle end.

    Pictures are better than words, so the attached pics show the degree of cant. Kind of hard to see it until you zoom in and draw the yellow lines parallel to the barrel ribs vs the top of frame.

    Attached Files: