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SGW, I like that set up. What did you attach to the end of the string to keep the felt plug on the line? Where did you get the felt plugs? I'd like to make to make one for my 22lr's.
And thanks for the idea.
The felt plugs are from Amazon.com. I use 0.093 diameter weed-whacker line. I make the brass end keepers.
I haven't used a bronze brush in .22 rimfire bores for over 20 years. The solvents available these days work very well to loosen up all fouling in the shallow .22 rimfire rifling. The plugs apply the EEZOX and then, after a while, the plugs will pull fouling out of the bore and leave a protective coating behind.
 

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Before I started making the brass 'keepers' to prevent the line from pulling through the plug, what I did was to melt one end of the weed-whacker line and then stuff that soft end into a spent .22 long rifle rimfire case until it hardened up again. You need to be a bit careful to not let the line burn, because the plastic will get brittle and break off very easily. Try to just get the end to melt and then shape it.
 

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O.K., I have bought several "Viper"pull-throughs from CDNN: I suppose from the price they are manufactured by some "offshore" company. Are they more likely to break and be stuck in my barrel than the expen$ive Hoppe's brand? I haven't used any of them yet, but have thought dragging a wet patch through the bore before using the snake would eliminate a lot of the bad stuff in the fouling, and not load up the braided body of the snake. Then wash it every 2-3 uses. Would that keep it clean enough, do you think ?

CZ bores are tighter than standard .22 LR barrels, and I had a really impossible time getting a felt pellet into the bore, so I finally quit, and went back to using my Patchworm and patches.
Looking through my assortment of sure-fire & magical bore cleaning potions, they all seem to work about the same. And....
I know opinions are like elbows...most everybody's got two, but, being basically lazy, I am looking for just one sure-fire, EASY cleaning solution and method that will eliminate the dreaded carbon ring, and remove fouling of all sorts in one or two quick passes?
I notice SGW Gunsmith uses EEZOX. Him being a Gunsmith, I don't imagine he would use anything that didn't work well the first time, every time.
Enlighten me, please!:)
 

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For my big bores, I use wipe-out or Patch out. Works like a charm! .22s being a bit more finicky, I haven't found anything that worked better than old Hoppe's #9. Is the new #9 any better than the old stuff, or just different? And...just try finding EEZOX around here!:rolleyes:
 

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Is the new #9 any better than the old stuff, or just different?
The new stuff is 'synthetic' and it's safe on polymer. I use both, the old #9 for the barrel and the new for everything else, it does the job and I use their new oil that's safe for polymer.
 

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I have always used Hoppe's #9. I have several guns with polymer stocks and frames. I have both #9 original and synthetic, but I have no problems using either one on all of my guns. Granted, as soon as I notice either solvent or oil on the polymer I wipe it clean. I believe if there was a chance of harming the polymer, Hoppe's would put a warning on the bottle. Even if just to cover their butts.
 

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Some of these new synthetics "claim" that they do well to remove plastic wad build-up in shotgun bores.
So, I would be careful about using that solution on some certain finishes.
 

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Been using them since the first came out (and before, mil surp). They are great for range and field but a cleaning rod setup for a thorough clean at the home bench. Some CLP or Hoppes on the leading portion and washing them when they get really gunge up.
 

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I've been using bore snakes on my .22s for years.
Recently I have gotten into PCP air guns and bought a second bore snake to use exclusively on them. I removed the wire brush inserts from that bore snake.
 
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